Domaine des Huards Cour-Cheverny “Romo” 2017

This is the new Romorantin, decidedly not what was generally found a generation ago (which tended to be an acid, austere wine often with oxidative notes). This cuvée has a remarkable nose, akin to high-toned Riesling for some and Loire Chenin for others—a dense wine with layers of flavors reminiscent of apricots and baked apples and other autumn fruits. Bracing, lifted, long, and altogether distinctive. Vines average 35 years of age; the wine is raised in tank on its fine lees and bottled in the spring following harvest, usually before malolactic has a chance to take place.