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Bernard Diochon Moulin-à-Vent “Cuvée Vieilles Vignes” 2018


Sustainable Farming Practices

Kermit Lynch

  • Type : Wine
  • Grape Variety: Gamay
  • Country/State: France
  • Region: Moulin-à-Vent AOC
  • Winery: Bernard Diochon

$27.99 $24.99

Out of stock

Importer’s Notes

2018 MOULIN-À-VENT “VIEILLES VIGNES”

Domaine Diochon

In a wine landscape in which producers bottle increasingly wider ranges of cuvées, Domaine Diochon has become an outlier, producing one bottling year in and year out, which happens to be the same bottling we have imported for nearly forty years: the old-vine Moulin-à-Vent. In our November 1984 newsletter, Kermit wrote, “There was only one cask of old vines and Diochon was going to blend it in to add substance and character to his other casks. I had to pay a premium to obtain that one cask pure and unblended.” Today, the wine is made from vines planted in 1920, 1950, and the 1960s. Not much else has changed with respect to this rouge that hails from Moulin-à-Vent, the Beaujolais cru known for producing arguably the region’s most age-worthy wines. Bernard Diochon, who succeeded his father in 1967, once said, “I like tannic wines without heaviness; with fruit and floral aromas. I don’t like weighty wines with hard tannins.” Although Bernard has been succeeded by Thomas Patenôtre, the wine continues to remain true to that sentiment. It contains some tannin—it wouldn’t be young Moulin-à-Vent if it didn’t—but it is beautifully integrated and the wine is ready to drink now if given a little time to breathe. Soulful and savory, with notes of cherries, iron, and smoke, this is cru Beaujolais built to last.

Blend: 100% Gamay

The wine ages in oak foudres for at least 6-7 months before bottling

Only minute doses of sulfur are used

Bottled unfined and unfiltered

Vineyard: 50 – 85 years, 5.05 ha

Soil: Pink granite, sandstone, with a manganese-rich sub-soil

Alcohol: 13%

 

Wine Advocate – “Revisited a year later, the 2018 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes continues to show very well, exhibiting a rich and inviting bouquet of black cherries, licorice, smoked meats, anise, orange rind and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, its deep core of fruit is framed by ripe tannins and succulent acids, concluding with a sapid finish. This is sufficiently demonstrative to drink well today—preferably with a rare steak or similar—but it will also age well. In style, it’s quite reminiscent of the 2009, which is in its prime. As I’ve written before, Thomas Patenôtre today superintends this five-hectare Moulin-à-Vent domaine, continuing to fashion resolutely classical expressions of the appellation, perpetuating the style favored by Bernard Diochon. Old vines, whole-cluster vinification, classical macerations and élevage in foudre are the order of the day. After making a success of challenging circumstances after the hail of 2016 and 2017, Patenôtre realized a very successful 2018 that exemplifies everything admirers of old-school cru Beaujolais—the present writer included—are looking for, and his 2019 vintage is just as promising.” (94 Pts)

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